Philipp Plein Pre-Fall 2024
âNobody calls me âdaddy,ââ Philipp Plein reflected: âExcept for Rocket.â Pleinâs perfectly behaved toddler sat on his fatherâs lap during this call, munching on cruditĂ©s and watching Peppa Pigâand Daddy Pigâon his papaâs phone. Meanwhile, Plein talked through a collection that went back to his mid-aughts roots.
The tattoo patterns on menswear and womenswear referred to a collection from 2008 or so, when he was still pivoting his focus from furniture to fashion. Plein showed it in a 500-square-meter ghost train ride at the former trade show Bread & Butter: to see the collection guests had to brave the ride. After discussing thisâplus his same-era Swarovski âPimp MachineââI asked Plein if he ever felt nostalgic for that earlier phase of his business. âItâs very refreshing to have these kinds of thoughts sometimes. Now everything is much more calculated. We work with forecasts and merchandising plans. So everything is a bit more structured too.â
The collection offered a full street-to-suiting suite of unpretentious luxury for women and men, as per. Swarovski-spattered bouclĂ© jackets and skirts, granny-ish womenswear tailoring twisted with denim accents, volumized biker jeans, and so-called âmob wifeâ faux furs were key pieces in womenswear. Menswear counterparts included tattoo-etched varsity jackets and crystal-patterned suiting, washed camo-pattern denim shirting, and biker accented eveningwear.
Pleinâs main line might be much more planned these days, but the new hotel heâs penciled to open in Milan by the end of 2024 should inject a fresh dose of his signature decadent anarchy. And of his Plein Sport second line, he added, âI donât only do it for the money: I do it for the fun.â Plein remains one of the very few true renegades in luxuryâs highly policed elitist space.
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