Charlie Constantinou Spring 2025 Ready-to-Wear
Since graduating from Central Saint Martins in 2022, Charlie Constantinou has built a cultish reputation as a purveyor of gleefully expressive gorpcore.âMy work is very much based around adaptability and how you can transition between different environments,â he said after todayâs show, âbut when you look at a lot of technical wear and outwear brands, it’s always very much limited [in terms of] silhouette. I’ve always loved technicality, but Iâm always trying to be more imaginative in thinking about what that could look like.â
For Charlie, the answer lies in abiding by the familiar doctrines of technical wearâdeadstock ripstop nylons with contrast zip details abounded for spring, lending themselves to parachute pants, tactical vests and the pleats of miniskirts. What made them stand out was less the cut of the piecesâwhich, it should be noted, was certainly competent, but the evocative hues in which each one was hand-dyed.
Exhibiting the flair of a master colorist, each piece was dappled in the ombré hues of a scorched desert landscape: cotton drill kilts that gradated from lemon yellow to dark, humus brown; grey jersey tops swaddled in tight, cape-like drapes, printed with flame orange swirls; puckered deadstock nylon backpacks and cotton Bermuda shorts in stony marbled washes.
Preexisting fans of the brand will no doubt be glad to see Constantinou developing his approach to bringing natural color textures to the synthetics-heavy world of techwear, but the most interesting developments came by way of the designerâs most comprehensive womenswear offering to date, anchored in an impressive knitwear offering. Fitted vests and column skirts came in cotton bouclĂ©s etched with craggy graphicsâthey were, in fact, mesh panels integrated into the pieces. Naturally, there was a technical consideration at hand, with the construction bringing breathability to pieces, allowing them to be worn in the searing climates Constantinou drew inspiration from. Very cool knitwear, if you will.
