Dušan Spring 2025 Ready-to-Wear

Stepping into Dušan’s showroom, nestled in an elegant building on a quiet Milan street, feels like entering a preternaturally serene space, filled with museum-worthy ancient and Egyptian art treasures (he’s an eager collector) surrounded by an extraordinary installation of bonsai trees.

Dušan Paunovic exists in a world of his own—he’s resistant to novelties, serves a loyal, upper-crust clientele that has stuck with him for over 25 years (and wear Dušan alongside Hermès and Loro Piana) and despises the word “trend.” “I don’t do trends,” he stated. “You won’t find the latest craze here. What you will find are designs that I adjust slightly each season, but fundamentally remain unchanged. It’s my formula—each year you can add new pieces without needing to discard what you bought the season before.”

Paunovic honed his craft at the Milan atelier of the legendary designer Zoran in the ’90s. “I’m his only legitimate heir,” he said. He has carried forward a style that was an early forerunner of minimalism. Zoran, a visionary and highly exacting designer, worked exclusively with the finest fabrics, which complemented his linear, luxurious creations. Fiercely independent (and self-funded) like his master, Paunovic remains true to his philosophy: “You have to stay consistent and authentic to who you are.” He meticulously perfects every garment, ensuring the cut, fit, and details are flawless. His signature designs feature loose, fluid, and oversized shapes—coats and jackets are offered in a single size. His curated wardrobe includes a handful of thoughtfully designed pieces crafted from exquisite fabrics: a flowing oversized kimono trench coat, a slightly more fitted unstructured batwing jacket for this season, wide-leg pajama pants with an elasticated waist (this season he added an option in the softest suede), and square-cut tops that look terribly chic layered over his signature sarong skirts, which wrap around the body with ease.

This season, Paunovic ventured into dresses, a category he usually avoids. “They aren’t really my thing,” he declared matter-of-factly. Nevertheless, he introduced a flattering design in ribbed viscose, featuring a fitted bodice that flares into a long skirt. He also experimented with a refreshed color palette. While he typically favors neutrals and black, he loosened his restraint, adding shades like forest green, deep burgundy, and bright Chartreuse yellow. “But I’m still unsure about that,” he said, eyeing a beautifully tailored chemise in liquid, sensuous silk satin in a soft coral pink, visibly puzzled about the bold new hue.