Food industry failing Europe’s children

The food industry is under fire for the poor quality of foods aimed specifically at babies and toddlers.

And the critics are pulling no punches.

“They’re conning parents,” says nutritionist Dr Vicky Sibson, director of First Steps Nutrition Trust. “They’re conning them into believing they’re healthy good choices for their babies, when they’re not.”

The comments were made during a recent BBC Panorama broadcast, where the top-selling baby food pouches were rigorously tested for nutrients such as vitamins and iron.

Brand products tested – top four brands by salesElla’s KitchenHeinz By NaturePiccoloLittle FreddiePrivate label products tested – only supermarkets with a full range of pouches Aldi’s Mamia Lidl’s LupiluBaby and toddler foods lacking nutrientsEven the strongest advocate of the food and beverage industry would be hard-pressed to defend the findings of the Panorama investigation.

In particular, the findings that nutrients were severely lacking in all of the products tested.

For example, all pouches were found to contain far less than the recommended daily amount of iron (7.8mg per day) babies and toddles should be consuming.

Pediatric dietitian, Bahee Van de Bor, said she would expect an infant’s main meal to provide around 3mg of iron, in order to be able to make up the daily total required.

The pouches tested contained the following iron levels:

Little Freddie Butternut Squash Red Lentils and Coconut: 1mgElla’s Kitchen Spag Bol: 0.7mgAldi Mamia’s Bangers & Mash: 0.5mgLidl Lupilu’s Chicken Casserole: 0.4mgPiccolo’s Butternut Squash Mac & Cheese: 0.1mgHeinz Sweet Potato Chicken & Veggies: 0.325mgIn other words, the best performing pouch contained less that one seventh of the recommended daily intake.

And their fruit offerings didn’t rate much better. When tested for sugar, the researchers found the following results:

Aldi’s Mamia Bananas and Apples (17g)Lidl’s Lupilu Apple and Strawberry (12g)Heinz By Nature Apple (12g)Ella’s Kitchen Banana (13g) Piccolo’s Mango (8g)Little Freddie (9g)For context, the UK’s National Health Service recommends that children aged one-year old should have no more than 10g of free sugars per day, meaning that only Piccolo and Little Freddie meet current guidelines.

“I think most people would be quite shocked about that,” says Eddie Crouch, chair of the British Dental Association.

And he was quick to question the industry.

“If they knew the damage it was doing to a cohort of children, I wonder whether they would really be happy about the products they’re making,” he continued.

However manufacturers have been equally emphatic in their response to the findings, with a spokesperson from Ella’s Kitchen telling FoodNavigator the company is concerned by “ongoing narratives” implying puréed or blended fruit and veg are harmful.

“While these foods do contain naturally occurring sugar – and it’s right that sugar should be minimised where possible – that’s only part of the picture. They also contain essential nutrients like fibre and vitamin C, and offer a safe, accessible way for little ones to explore new tastes and textures.”

Having said that, the infant food manufacturer is working to improve its products.

“We’re always working to do better,” says a spokesperson for Ella’s Kitchen. “Over the past few years, we’ve significantly reduced sugar across our range, with a 13% reduction in our bestselling range in 2023, and have an ongoing programme of reformulation in order to reduce sugar, improve textures and increase the nutrition of all our products.”

The findings of the Panorama report follow a Europe-wide trend, resulting in rising concerns around sugar and ultra-processed foods in the children’s food and beverage market.

“European parents and health bodies are increasingly concerned about childhood consumption of high-sugar, high-salt, and ultra-processed foods,” says a spokesperson for industry analysts ResearchAndMarkets. “European governments are introducing sugar taxes, advertising restrictions, and school lunch reforms to curb obesity and diet-related diseases. These policy changes pressure manufacturers to reformulate products without compromising taste or appeal.”

Children’s food sector in need of reform, say nutritionists. (Image: Getty/Image Source)Newcomers shaking things upWhile established brands have received criticism, there are newer brands entering the market, hoping to improve the quality of children’s food offerings and the reputation of the sector.

“Current product offerings lack innovation, and where innovation has been made, the products lack nourishment,” says Libby Gower, co-founder of children’s food start-up Joey’s Family Food. “Companies have developed products without thought to nutrition or WHO guidelines. They mislead and market products incorrectly. Trust has been lost and parents and careers can no longer feel confident they are giving their baby the best with what is on offer.”

Current product offerings lack innovation, and where innovation has been made, the products lack nourishment

Libby Gower, Joey’s Family Food. In fact, Gower is firmly in the critics’ camp when it comes to her view on the children’s food industry.

“Companies have been lazy in my opinion,” she says. “Taking advantage of a vulnerable group of customers. ‘If it ain’t broke why fix it?’ There has not been the pressure from customers until more recent years to change.”

Industry to be more tightly regulatedGrowing concerns around standards in the baby, toddler and children’s food sector have let to governments placing it under closer observation.

“This is a part of the food industry that deserves more scrutiny and certainly could do better,” says Dr Alison Tedstone, former chief nutritionist of Public Health England.

And it’s in the industry’s best interest to do so, as the European Kids Food and Beverage Market is worth an estimated $28.43bn (€24.48bn), and is set to grow at a CAGR of 5.6% (ResearchAndMarkets).

What’s more, many parents and carers rely upon pre-prepared foods for their little ones.

“I cannot sustain three cooked meals every day and work a full-time job,” said mum Krystal when interviewed by the Panorama team.

Campaigners call for tighter regulations on baby foods. (Image: Getty/Sergey Kirsanov)