Acne Studios Spring 2025 Menswear

Years in the making, the opening of Acnes Studios HQ in Paris was decidedly worth the wait. There will be more to reveal soon; let’s just say the building, located in the 10th arrondissement, gives off a carefully calibrated clash of opulent and raw, with the spaces as well-suited to a party or photo-shoot as today’s showroom.

From a crinkled patent leather sofa in the brand’s signature pink (nicely done, Max Lamb), Jonny Johansson explained how this season’s lineup revolved around the notion of superheroes, and how most of us have an article of clothing that makes us feel more kickass. For some, this might already be the Acne Studios extra-long colorful fuzzy scarf. But Johansson was thinking on a whole other level of hero piece.

Cue a multitude of looks covered with Wonder Woman, Catwoman, and other DC femme fatales, in an official collaboration with Warner Brothers. Discovery Global Consumer Projects. From Pop Art-ish patterns to patches on bags, they prompted the inevitable gender-charged question. “Women are the real superheroes—or they have more superpowers at least,” Johansson replied. “They’re violent but in another way.” Subtext: sexier—and nods to fetishwear cropped up in a suit piped with silicone and cotton short- shorts that teased with holes. Clearly, Acne Studios doesn’t need latex suits to offer up some kink.

Elsewhere, the collection doubled down on last season’s ingenious trompe l’oeil printed jeans (actually a cotton canvas) tricked out with illusion chains and charms or stacked with studded belts, no need to further accessorize, while also introducing an elaborately distressed jacquard denim. Despite the two extremes of technique, the difference in photos might be barely discernible. And there were plenty more novel ideas, too, including a cargo in a fluid fabric, a side-zip warm-up pant in supple leather, and a camera bag that was almost named Photoshopper. Second-skin mesh tops were printed with Johansson’s old band logo from the ’90s. What is his superpower? “Guitars,” he replied. “You can listen to music, but you can also make music and you can live music.” Put another way and specific to this fun and frisky season, if we can’t be sexy rockstars (or superheroes), we can at least dress the part.