Emilio Pucci Fall 2024 Ready-to-Wear

Camille Miceli doesn’t lack joie de vivre, and her ebullient personality naturally aligns with the mood-boosting pop colors and prints of Emilio Pucci. Ranging from high summer holiday options to more urban occasions, the fall collection is called Pucci Parade. Alternating between explosive colorways and all-over black iterations, Miceli wanted a pause from the excess visual stimulation that Pucci can often induce. “You don’t want to look like you’re wrapped in a drapeau [a flag],” she joked.

Silhouettes were mostly short, flattering, and près-du-corps, with a fluidity that hinted at the movement of skate dance. Miceli recalled that, together with her mentor Gilles Dufour, she used to follow the athletic performances of French figure skater Surya Bonaly, a world-renowned Olympic champion in the mid-’90s. For her performances, Bonaly wore colorful costumes, some of which were designed by Christian Lacroix. The collection’s miniskirts, flaring out from tight bodices, were loosely inspired by her look—a mix of assertive body-consciousness and romance, alternating between figure-hugging dresses and flowing long numbers.

A stalwart fan of Prince, Miceli referenced the pop legend’s style in ’70s-inflected, tight-fitting pantsuits, rendered in sequined pinstripes for a dash of rockstar evening glamour. Going unnoticed isn’t in Pucci’s ethos, and Miceli is partial to a bold posture and stand-out outfits. Normcore or sottovoce luxury definitely do not suit her, and she’s injected even more dazzle into archival prints, updating them each season with new colors and artsy motifs. While paying homage to the label’s legacy, Miceli has made Emilio Pucci her own; she explained that she’s guided by a quote from Goethe, often cited by Karl Lagerfeld, with whom she worked at Chanel: “Make a better future by expanding elements from the past.”