Frederick Anderson Pre-Fall 2025
When I arrived at Frederick Andersonâs Manhattan boutique and atelier, he was in the back room where his garments are designed, sewn, and fitted, taking a final pass through the brandâs pre-fall 2025 offering before it was neatly packed in large duffles. The pieces were soon off to Old San Juan, Puerto Rico, where Anderson staged a destination show. The designerâs recent collections have celebrated African influences, and Puerto Rico came to mind while he was in conversation with menswear designer Carlos Campos, discussing the prominence of the island as part of the African diaspora. âWhen you think of these collections,â Anderson said of the releases between spring and fall, âitâs either an evolution in or out of something. Youâre not going to start a whole new theme; itâs really: how do I make this make sense in my evolution.â
Picking up where spring 2025 left offâa runway that concluded with a number of black dressesâpre-fall 2025 is filled with vacation-ready whites: a crochet mini dress paired with an oversized cardigan; a midi lace pencil skirt with a thigh-high slit. White ruffled pieces aboundâa nod to looks worn to dance the Afro-Puerto Rican Bomba. Traditionally made in cotton, âI did them in silks and in organzas, because thatâs my client,â Anderson said of the silhouettes. An abstract print on draped silk dress and separates called to mind the ocean splashing up against coastal rock. âI love brown and blue together,â Anderson said of the fabric. âThereâs something very chic about that combination.â
Much of the collection, Anderson said, is âa texture story,â marked by guipure mixed with taffeta, and embroideries inspired by the Puerto Rican vines and flowers that snake up the walls of buildings. A shift dress with alternating lace and denim panels is a standout among casual pieces, and Andersonâs fondness for â70s silhouettes is seen in asymmetrical jumpsuit, both done in tie-dye.
âMy client is here because she wants something specialâsheâs not here because she wants what everyone else is wearing,â Anderson said of those who walk through his boutique doors. The showâs finale look is made with that in mind: a dazzling chainmail dressâgold crystal on open meshâwith a cowl-neck halter and two side slits. Anderson fit it over a dress form and took a step back. âIsnât it epic?â he remarked.