GCDS Spring 2025 Ready-to-Wear

To the exuberant sound of a special remix of “Everything is Romantic,” made for the show by Charli XCX herself, Giuliano Calza presented his spring 2025 collection, “Flowers of the Concrete.” The show location was the Italian stock exchange palace, best known for the “L.O.V.E.” sculpture of a raised middle finger by Maurizio Cattelan placed in front of it. Delicate flowers capable of blossoming in harsh conditions were a metaphor to represent the resilient women embodied by contemporary pop artists and icons who constantly influence the world around us and are a crucial inspiration (almost an obsession) for Calza. Charli XCX, of course, but also Bianca Censori, said Calza during a preview in his office. The “stubborn energy” of these women, as Calza put it, ignited a reflection on how niches evolve to become, sometimes, globally accepted.

All that was the starting point for a collection Calza wanted his community to feel. So there were pieces fans could easily replicate at home, like the V-shaped elasticated tops often obtained from already existing T-shirts, or sheer knitwear and tights used as colorful, hyper-pop bodysuits. These proposals were paired––with the idea of creating an evident contrast––to duchesse satin pieces and sartorial creations, such as pencil skirts, bombers, and mini dresses of vaporous silhouettes. This contrast, also present in the color palette (a juxtaposition of bright tones from orange to purple) was further explored through multiple shades of green, including “Brat green,” of course.

Calza’s pop exploration and reinterpretation was once again a central theme, but in a more subtle way. An example was his signature Hello Kitty bikini, this time in a yellow version, which timidly peeked out from the geometric neckline of a mini dress.