MSGM Fall 2024 Menswear

You’ve got to give credit to Massimo Giorgetti for trying to give MSGM some edge, challenging himself to go the not-too-predictable route. Framing his shows in improbable locations is part of the picture; after entryways in modernist buildings, theaters, city parks, bars and art galleries, this time he literally went underground, taking over the Porta Venezia station of the Milanese subway.

Giorgetti is keen to emphasize his connection with everything Milanese; this year the city’s subway fêtes its 60th birthday, which seemed a good chance to associate MSGM with a celebrated example of the Italian design finesse of the ’60s. The typography of its signage and its tubular curved handrails were created in 1964 by Franco Albini, one of the most elegant designers of that time, who gave his stylish twist to an otherwise bleak architectural structure.

The curved shape of the handrails was reprised by Giorgetti as a decorative leitmotif, working in partnership with the Franco Albini Foundation to make it possible. It was pinned as a brooch on a hoodie or jacquarded at the front of a slim black city coat; its peculiar shade of red served as a chromatic reference throughout the collection. The original handrail prototype was even carried as a sort of It bag by one of the models—Giorgetti is definitely happy to let his references do the talking. Showing in the subway also hinted at velocity and speed, not always good life companions in our hectic times.

Giorgetti never met a collaboration he didn’t like. In addition to the Franco Albini Foundation, this season he worked with Google (a first for the tech company) on graphics generated by using a feature of the Pixel 8 phone and its AI-based camera; images of subway trains in full acceleration were transformed into eye-popping prints. Portuguese artist Tiago Alexandre was also involved; the graphics emblazoned on his totemic artworks of motorcycle helmets were reprised here on a jacquarded jumper as well as on a couple of shirts, tucked into classic fluid trousers or worn under a tailored blazer paired with wide-leg jeans.

By MSGM standards, the collection was concise and showed less indulgence in styling exuberance, while not doing away with the optimistic vibe that mirrors Giorgetti’s own attitude of open-mindedness and generosity. He’s no philosopher or conceptual thinker, but he has a flair for addressing meaningful issues with a lightness of spirit that feels genuine. Regarding the slightly more grown-up feel of the collection, he acknowledged that the passage of time doesn’t exactly find him excited, but at the same time makes him reflect on the impermanence of things and today’s crazy velocity at which feelings, sentiments, information, and images are eroded. Yet the curiosity of his inner kid seems to be still intact. That’s why there was an abundance of sequins, feathers and sparkle embellishing sweats, briefs and coats; some looks came with childlike white socks and flat ballerinas, or with fluffy bedroom slippers. “Do we really need to go that fast?” he mumbled backstage. Then he dashed off running to take his bow.