Saul Nash Fall 2025 Menswear

London-born Saul Nash’s Milan menswear debut was a major move, even for a designer who has always put movement at the center of his practice. So while dance has often featured in his past shows, this season he kept to the time-honored runway walk rubric. This allowed another form of movement to jump out at his audience.

The show was bookended with looks that featured a shirt and tie. The first shirt was white, with narrow cuffs, and was worn under a perforated black leather jacket with cutaway arms. The second came in gray Jermyn Street stripes, its buttons disguised by a black woven tie. Instead of a collar, it featured a hood that poked over the collar of the gray fleece jacket cloaklet worn over it. The collection was called Metamorphosis and, noted Nash, “was also about a metamorphosis of me as a person. I grew up wearing a lot of tracksuits. Now I want to wear a shirt, but what does that shirt look like?” Elsewhere a parka, a bomber jacket and a hooded ripstop shirt all came waisted with a padded cummerbund-like strait that doubled as a bag. A hooded tailored black jacket was zippered at each armpit both for ventilation and gestural freedom.

These pointed towards interesting future applications of Nash’s liberating design philosophy. Or as he said, “a lot of my work is about cutting garments for movement. I want men to be able to transform in my clothes, and to think about how they fit in in them.” The rest of this collection, however, was also a considered demonstration of that philosophy applied to more familiarly informal Nash territory.

Japanese denim printed with dancer graphics was cut to wend around the body. Jersey tops were pulled up over one shoulder, half-on, half-off. Smocked satin shirts were unbuttoned across the chest. An enveloping black jumpsuit came strafed with zippers for versatile unpeeling. There were also looks from a new collaboration with Lululemon: running wear in layered opaque tones, a handbag fanny pack, and a copper tinted tracksuit with cutaway arms were amongst the highlights here. Nash’s progressively sensual approach to menswear felt immediately at home in Milan.