Vogue’s Resident Vintage Enthusiast Takes The Sturbridge Show—Here’s What She Loved

“When will we get to the 1990s?” asked a student of mine as I was halfway done with my fashion history recap of the 1950s—the golden age of haute couture! The pupil was one of many youths enrolled in a Vogue Summer School course for pre-college students who were keen for me to speed things up and get to the hallowed era of CBK. Disappointed, I responded, “Just four more decades to go!”

Thankfully, I experienced the exact opposite of disappointment at The Sturbridge Show, which opens tonight and is, save for a few gems, filled with vintage and antique pieces that precede TikTok’s favorite fashion era. “This is not Gaultier nineties mesh or pieces from the 2000s,” says the show’s operator, David Brockman, as he walks me through the show hours before it opens. “And there are probably new things that you can move into if you wanted to try the thirties,” he adds, gesturing me (a ’50s-and-onwards gal) to Eveliina Vintage’s’ booth, which is filled with a sherbet-hued array of satin and organza slip dresses from the ’30s and ’40s.

This is a show for the very-vintage enthusiast—35 vendors from all over the country have set up shop in the highly-curated fair. Though Sturbridge contains pieces that will make a fashion-nostalgic weak in the knees (Mary McFadden! Pierre Cardin! Zandra Rhodes!), the show is not meant to overwhelm.

“I only want to have a 35-dealer show,” says Brockman. A vintage dealer himself who has been operating NYC-based Honeymoon Antiques, Brockman purchased The Sturbridge Show—which was formerly Sturbridge Vintage Clothing & Textile Show—from Linda Zukas in 2022. Since then, the sartorial antiquarian has turned it into a thrice-annual vintage fair on Manhattan’s West 18th Street in the Altman Building—the former carriage house that received goods for legendary New York department store B. Altman & Company. “I wanted to create a very boutiquey, slow shopping experience. I think that’s what everyone wants, and it’s something that’s really lacking in the New York vintage scene—you can take a minute.”

But don’t take too long! These pieces are going-going-gone! My personal favorites from the show, which is on through tomorrow night by tickets only, are below.

Photo: Danté Crichlow

Photo: Danté Crichlow

Bonnie Cashin Coat from TJs Sweet RepeatsConsider this one off the market because she’s coming home with me! This gorgeous late 1960s coat by Bonnie Cashin (which looks very similar to this coat in the School of the Art Institute of Chicago Library & Special Collections) also bears a Saks Fifth Avenue label and features leather piping and Cashin’s signature twist-lock buttons. Cashin is an American designer who helped define the American look with her fresh and practical sportswear designs and despite her place in American fashion history, she has yet to land in my wardrobe.

Mary McFadden trio from Orlando Vintage Clothing & CostumeI was devastated when I heard the news about McFadden’s passing a few weeks ago. I was lucky enough to meet her and told her I wore a Mary McFadden dress on the day of my civil wedding ceremony. I have a few McFadden pieces in my closet, but there’s always room for more. I was delighted to see that the Winter Park-based Florida vintage booth Orlando Vintage had three gorgeous pieces that displayed McFadden’s range—from her couture label to her ready-to-wear pieces. My vintage policy? When in doubt, buy the McFadden.

Photo: Danté Crichlow

Cardin Leather Set from Honeymoon AntiquesOf course, The Sturbridge Show operator had a few of the not-to-miss pieces in his booth. Upon entering the show, you’ll immediately spot the stellar leather set. Brockman admitted, in so many words, that this is his favorite—it’s been in his possession for nearly 15 years, and he’s only ready to part with it now. (“It’s a great story because I bought it from a squatter on 10th Street and Avenue D,” he says.) Allegedly, the owner was a fabulous woman who patronized Studio 54 and had a killer sense of fashion since she also owned a purple leather Cardin pinafore skirt with a scandalous Rudi Gernreich-esque “topless” top. But the Cardin set that makes my list is the soft-as-butter set, which features a magenta suede strip along the V-neckline of the dress. And because, for me, it’s all in the details, I can’t deny the space-agey circular zipper pull.

Photo: Danté Crichlow

Rudi Gernreich gown from Style 4 VintageSpeaking of Rudi Gernreich, a piece from the Austrian-American designer can be found on a mannequin that is sure to turn heads throughout the two-day sale. The clingy black jersey halterneck gown features a sculptural silver neckpiece that recalls Elsa Peretti’s sumptuous sterling pieces for Tiffany & Co. I’m not the biggest minimalist, but when a piece such as this really commands the less-is-more notion, it’s very hard to resist! Especially since it has such a provenance! The dress, which dates back to Spring 1975, was photographed on the mod-icon Peggy Moffat. Gernreich also commissioned the jeweler Christian den Blaker, and inside the collar, you can spot den Blaker’s inscriptions.

Nelly de Paris dress from Maria NiforosEverything in Maria Niforos’ booth was catnip for me. There is an astounding collection of antique linens and lace, from a Lesage-embroidered netted fabric meant to adorn a Belle Epoque-era gown to handmade lace linen pillowcases with a peach satin ribbon woven throughout. A highlight, though, was a two-piece set from the label Nelly de Paris that was distinctly 1960s. The incredible piece (a silvery empire waist dress) contained so much beadwork and embroidery that it was a challenge to lift! The dress comes with a coordinating coat, and between the two, you’d be wearing 30 pounds—at least. The set seems ready for a Camelot-era White House celebration and best of all is that the label, Nelly de Paris, was a discovery for me. Even better than coming home from a vintage fair with new pieces is coming home having learned of a new designer.

Oscar de la Renta set from Vintedge NYCDo you see the look of pure joy on my face? This is the doing of Oscar de la Renta. I cannot deny vintage Oscar, and I was especially smitten with this piece. A blousy velvet top and velvet skirt set from the 1980s, the pair features incredible beadwork along the collar and waist. I think when people recall the 1980s they think of Mugler and Claude Montana-esque power dressing, but there was also a moment for extremely demure elegance which this piece epitomizes. I told myself I couldn’t buy “another black dress,” but technically this is a skirt and top set!

Photo: Danté Crichlow

Ossie Clarke dress from Retro 101 / Cherry Bomb VintageThe St. Louis, Missouri-based Retro 101 had another one of my favorite pieces on show: A pleated black Ossie Clarke dress that was made for Quorum—London’s iconic fashion emporium founded by Alice Pollock in 1964. The next year, the husband and wife design duo of Ossie Clark and Celia Birtwell (he did the cuts while she did the textile design) joined as designers. This dress is like a snapshot of London as it eased out of the Mary Quant mod era and into the romantic 1970s. I just adore it.

Photo: Danté Crichlow

Zandra Rhodes dress from Honeymoon AntiquesMore 1970s romanticism can be found at Brockman’s Honeymoon Antiques. A stunning gossamer gown of kelly green featuring an all-over cactus print and pink floral embellishment along the hemline epitomizes how designers in the early 1970s so adeptly elevated the hippie look of the youth. Rhodes is a woman of many talents, but I prefer her earlier pieces (like this one) over her punk-inspired looks that would soon follow.

Photo: Danté Crichlow

Purple velvet Adolfo from Vintedge NYCAdolfo is a designer who deserves more celebration. And for that reason, plus the fact that I cannot resist anything velvet, this purple gown has landed itself on my list. From 1969, this dress is downright dreamy. The velvet skirt features top-stitching detail that adds even more depth to the piece while the bell sleeves add to the bohemian chic of it all. Plus, the crystal embellishment along the hemline and collar is in perfect condition.

Photo: Danté Crichlow

Denim Galanos dress from Orlando Vintage Clothing & CostumeLast on my list is a dress that I would have never guessed was Galanos. As he was known for his incredible and lavishly detailed evening wear—you’d be best dressed in a Galanos!—the denim fabrication threw me. However, the incredible princess seams running down the back to create a sculpted look once worn confirms that this is indeed the work of such a master. I’m not much of a jeans girl, but this dress has convinced me!