What is regenerative cocoa? The secret life beneath the canopy
When one thinks of regenerative agriculture, âno-tillâ, or âcover croppingâ may come to mind. One may even picture rows of crops in a farmed field, alongside borders of biodiverse hedgerows and wildflowers.
But regenerative agriculture is not only relevant to fields and soil-focused practices; it can be applied to almost every form of cultivation â including those in tropical areas.
Regenerative cocoa farming is a prime example.
What is regenerative cocoa?No unified definition of regenerative agriculture exists, but itâs generally understood to refer to principles that protect and support the surrounding environment.
Itâs a mistake to tie regenerative agriculture exclusively to soil-focused practices, often framed as âconservation agricultureâ, according to Juliana Jaramillo, who leads regenerative agriculture efforts at the Rainforest Alliance (RA). âIts roots run much deeper.â
Regenerative agriculture â also known as âregen agâ â encompasses a âholistic approachâ based on principles practiced by Indigenous communities for millennia.
âIt is about cultivating complexity and diversity across entire ecosystems â from soil microorganisms to shade trees, birds, insects, and multiple crops,” she explains.
In tropical landscapes, like cocoa growing regions in West Africa, regenerative agriculture is as relevant as it is to arable farms. In cocoa, regen ag practices aim to restore degraded land, make life more stable for farmers, and conserve biodiversity, says the RA regenerative agriculture lead. Restoring soil health and long-term fertility, while also reducing or eliminating pesticide use, is key.
The main difference between regenerative farming for crops and cocoa is that cocoa is all about agroforestry. While arable systems usually focus on things like no-till and crop rotation, cocoa farming leans into mixing cocoa trees with native plants, using cover crops, composting and managing shade to boost soil health and bring the ecosystem back to life.
Regenerative agriculture is as relevant to cocoa cultivation as it is to arable farming. (Lucy Brown – loca4motion/Image: Getty/Lucy Brown – loca4motion)Many big-name confectionery makers are adopting regen ag practices in cocoa. Ferrero â which owns brands Ferrero Rocher, Kinder and others â is incorporating agroforestry farming systems into its cocoa cultivation.
âAs a shade-tolerant crop, cocoa grows well in diverse farming systems where itâs intercropped with other trees, such as leguminous, timber, or fruit trees,â explains a Ferrero spokesperson. If done right, it can boost long-term fertility and biodiversity, store carbon, and help diversify a farmerâs income.
Why isnât all cocoa grown using regenerative farming?Regenerative agriculture comes with impressive track record for the planet. Research suggests that using regen ag principles not only matches the productivity of traditional agriculture, but can even surpass it.
âWhen survival depends on every harvest, shifting to unfamiliar methods â even if they promise long-term gains â is daunting and not always possible.”
Juliana Jaramillo, regenerative agriculture lead, Rainforest AllianceBarriers exist in rolling these principles out, however. For Ferrero, challenges lie in figuring out what works and helping farmers learn from each other. âChoosing the right combination of trees and the right farm design is crucial for regenerative agriculture to be successful and profitable,â says the company spokesperson.
Itâs also costly for farmers to transition from traditional to regenerative practices. Ferrero says it works closely with farmers in its supply chain to help ease economic risks, but still, RA believes this is the single greatest challenge for regenerative cocoa farmers today.
Most smallholder cocoa farmers live in or near poverty, explains RAâs Jaramillo. âWhen survival depends on every harvest, shifting to unfamiliar methods â even if they promise long-term gains â is daunting and not always possible.”
Whatâs the solution? Removing some of that burden for farmers, believes the regen ag expert, stressing that transitioning to regenerative agriculture cannot rest on the shoulders of farmers alone. They need to be supported along from farm to shelf.
Should chocolate brands shout about their regen ag practices?Once the cocoa is turned into chocolate, and packaged for the end-consumer, thereâs often little evidence it was produced for better soil health or biodiversity.
Thatâs because on-pack claims for regenerative agriculture are few and far between. Should chocolate brands let consumers know theyâve used regenerative farming practices?
Should chocolate brands make more noise about regenerative agriculture in their supply chains? (Image: Getty/EasyBuy4u)Ferrero believes consumers do want to understand about the complex transition from traditional to regenerative agricultural practices taking place on farms today. The snacks and confectionery company releases regular reports to keep people informed about whatâs changing on the ground.
Others in the supply chain also suspect thereâs growing interest among consumers. According to research from ingredients supplier ADM, which supports regenerative agricultural processes to wheat, barley and canola, more than half of consumers in EMEA say they are more likely to purchase foods and drinks from companies that practice regenerative agriculture.
Thirty-nine percent said they would pay more for food and beverage products that support local farmers and promote community growth, 33% said they would stomach a higher price tag for sustainably sourced products, and 21% said theyâd fork out for products sourced from regenerative agriculture.
As more companies adopt these methods, should they talk more openly about what theyâre doing? The data suggests yes. As regenerative agriculture scales, storytelling will be an important part of the transition. It might be time for chocolate brands â and the wider food industry â to bring regenerative practices out of the field and onto the label.
