Where to Drink Wine During the Venice Biennale, According to an Expert

As a winemaker, most of my travel is in service of work, and the days have a habit of filling up with visits with sommeliers after my morning tea until far past my usual bedtime. No matter how busy the trip, or how eager I am to get back to my family, I always build in a few hours to sneak away to a gallery, museum, or show. Outside of good food and wine, it’s the only thing I can’t miss.

On my mind this month is the upcoming Venice Biennale. Adriano Pedrosa’s curation of contemporary artists takes on the expansive idea of Stranieri Ovunque: Foreigners Everywhere. The perfect lens for an exhibition; chimeric and challenging. But if you’re among the art cognoscenti descending upon the waters of Venice at dinnertime, there may be other challenges in store.

It would feel wrong, or at least deflating, to wade mouth-deep in beauty all day only to wander into a meal of bad fettuccine and wine fit only for turiste. So I asked Bobby Stuckey, master sommelier, hospitalian, restaurateur, and cookbook author—and co-owner of Frasca Hospitality Group—for some help drinking wine like a local, even as you contend with your existential foreignness.

Wherever you go, take note of the wines you love, especially those from Friuli. It’s just an hour from Venice! Once the Biennale wraps, extend your stay and book a series of tastings at the wineries of your new favorite Friulian producers, those bright glasses that cut through the shimmering haze of art and Venetian food you just luxuriated in.

Maggie Harrison is the founder, creative director, and winemaker of Antica Terra.

Osteria Alle TestierePhoto: Courtesy of Osteria alle Testiere

Luca Di Vita (his name makes even more sense once you meet him) runs this amazing eleven-table restaurant, centered as much on the cellar as it is on the “catch of the day.” Luca is a sommelier by trade and knows every bottle on the wine list inside and out. The list itself is both extremely sane, and wildly exultant. There is no dogma, nor are there big box industrial wines—it is simply a collection of the most exciting winemakers working today. Make reservations, as this is a tough table to get.

LocalPhoto: Courtesy of Local

The Venetian one Michelin-star Local would be worth a trip on the food alone, but owner Benedetta Fullin wisely enlisted her wine importer brother, and Local co-owner, Luca to fill her cellar, which is presented by the ever-gracious sommelier Manuel Trevisan. The list is entirely Italian and great, the ideal place to let the set, coursed meal arrive as it will as you luxuriate over a bottle or three of your choosing. Of particular interest here is their tea- and tisane-paired meal, perfect for lunch or a non-imbiber in the party.

Estro Vino e CucinaPhoto: Courtesy of Estro

There are so many ways a wine bar can go wrong. An overwhelming hit-or-miss wine list, mediocre food, weird atmosphere. Instead, Estro Vino e Cucina is the argument for why they should exist. A stellar list of international wines is focused by their three principles: respect for terroir, love for the plant, and appreciation of the work of the vigneron. The result is a cohesive collection, even at 700 bottles. The dishes don’t miss a step either: Venetian standards prepared with seasonal ingredients and a fresh point of view.

Vino VeroPhoto: Klaus Hattinger / Courtesy of Vino Vero

After working at a biodynamic winery and finding the scene in Venice to be lacking, Matteo Bartoli and his wife Mara Sartore joined forces with Matteo’s brother Massimiliano to found Vino Vero, one of the city’s first natural wine bars. With a huge selection of wines available by the glass and absolutely no reservations, the scene is convivial, welcoming, and a magnet for local winemakers and cool kids alike.

Al CovoPhoto: Courtesy of Al Covo

For a moment of respite, sink into the cushioned seats of al Covo. At this storied outpost of the slow food movement, everything served—the catch, the vegetables, the cured meats, and the wines—are all sourced from small, independent, and local producers. There’s no better place to experience a refined translation of northern Italian culinary traditions, and that extends to the wine. Among the naturally-driven European list are singular Venetian and Friulian wines that have been brought in from just hours away. These are bottles that often don’t make it out of the country, bound to stir a deep appreciation for the rich history of winemaking just outside the city limits.