World’s biggest chocolate supplier moves to de-risk with cultivated cocoa

What’s all the fuss about cell-based cocoa?Barry Callebaut backs cell-based cocoa to boost supply chain resilienceLab-grown cocoa is scalable, sustainable, and simpler than cultivated meatIt unlocks new flavours, potential health benefits, and eco-friendly chocolate innovationThough unapproved, cell-based could meet rising demand for ethical, innovative foodIt’s headline-worthy when a legacy food company ventures into the world of food tech. And that’s exactly what’s happening in chocolate.

The world’s biggest chocolate supplier, Barry Callebaut, is exploring the potential of cocoa cell culture technology and if it meets its standards, could add cell-based cocoa to its ingredients portfolio.

Barry Callebaut explores cell-based cocoa with scientistsBarry Callebaut is looking into cultivated cocoa with the Zurich University of Applied Sciences (ZHAW). Two professors are leading the strategic partnership – Tilo Hühn and Regine Eibl – who say their research into cocoa cell culture technology is opening up “exciting possibilities” for sustainable innovation in chocolate.

Different scientists produce cell-based cocoa in different ways. But generally speaking, cell-based cocoa is made from cacao strains cultivated into a cell culture. The cells are then transferred into a bioreactor to grow, before being harvested and processed.

Who else is making cell-based cocoa?Professors at Zurich University of Applied Sciences aren’t the only experts in cell cultivated cocoa.

A growing number of start-ups are working in this space, including Kokomodo, Food Brewer, Celleste Bio, and California Cultured.

The process has been likened to that of cultivated meat, but simpler. Cultivated cacao cells require less complex media, making the process cheaper and easier to scale. The structure of cultivated meat is also significantly more complex than cultivated cocoa, which suggests the latter may find itself knocking on regulators’ doors sooner rather than later.

De-risking chocolate supply with cellular agricultureA major benefit of cell-cultivated cocoa is that it’s made in a laboratory, rather than in an agricultural setting. That’s important when it comes to this prized commodity in particular, which has faced a torrent of challenges in recent times.

The cocoa sector has been plagued by crop losses, fuelled by disease and adverse weather events. Cocoa prices have skyrocketed, and they’re still not back to where they were – and may never be. To make matters worse, it’s estimated that the vast majority of cocoa farmland will be unfit for production by 2050, due to climate change.

By adding cell-based cocoa to its portfolio, Barry Callebaut would be de-risking its supply chain. According to the biggest chocolate supplier on the planet, the technology could serve to provide an alternative cocoa source to diversify its portfolio, strengthen supply chain resilience, and develop new chocolate products with unique flavour profiles or enhanced health benefits.

The partnership with ZHAW is not about replacing traditional cocoa, stresses a Barry Callebaut spokesperson. Instead, it’s about “broadening the spectrum of cocoa-based ingredients” for its customers.

Do Barry Callebaut’s customers want cell-based cocoa?Cell cultivated cocoa remains a nascent technology. No regulatory agency has yet to approve it for sale, and limited research has been conducted into whether consumers want to eat cell-based cocoa instead of the real thing.

But Barry Callebaut is optimistic that enough of its manufacturer customers, which include major confectionery CPGs, would be up for next-gen cocoa.

“We believe many of our customers are increasingly open to innovative and sustainable solutions, especially those that align with evolving consumer expectations,” the spokesperson explains, adding: “By offering an additional, sustainable cocoa source, we aim to empower our customers with more choice and flexibility while continuing to support traditional cocoa farming communities.”

It’s too early to say when customers might start incorporating cell-based cocoa in their chocolate products. (Image: Getty/Jacob Wackerhausen)As to when the supplier’s customers could expect to see cell-based cocoa in amongst Barry Callebaut’s ingredients offerings, it’s hard to say. Strategy consulting firm Stellarix estimates the next couple of years will see many more cultivated cocoa start-ups enter the market, with pilot products beginning to launch. Between 2028-2032, regulatory approvals should expand globally, with the potential for cultivated cocoa to achieve cost parity with traditional cocoa from 2035 onwards.

For Barry Callebaut, it’s much too soon to commit to a commercialisation timeline. The partnership with ZHAW is an early-stage research initiative, the spokesperson stresses.

“However, we are committed to accelerating innovation and, if the outcomes are promising, we will work toward scaling the technology responsibly, once the technology meets our high standards for quality, safety and sustainability.”

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